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lateral
Side shoot, bud, etc.
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A bud arising in the leaf axil at a node in the stem, which will develop into a side shoot.
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LATERAL REVERSAL - A mirror image, as seen in the viewfinders of some cameras where the scene appears flipped from left to right.

bud
Bud forming along the side of a stem or branch rather than at the end
Layering
Treating a runner or shoot so it will form roots while still attached to the parent plant ...

Lateral budA bud attached to the side of a stem.LayeringA method of vegetatively propagating woody plants by covering portions of their stems or branches with moist soil or sphagnum moss so that adventitious root will form.

Said of buds which appear along the sides of the twig; at or along the side.
bud A bud borne in the axil of a previous season's leaf.

lateral A branch attached to and subordinate to another branch or trunk.
lateral bud A bud on the side, rather than the tip, of a stem.
lateral meristem A region where cells divide, located along the length of a stem or root.


rootlets on BLTVA infected plant
Statewide IPM Program, Agriculture and Natural Resources, University of California
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Lateral bud A bud borne in the axil of a leaf or branch; not terminal. Latex Milky sap which exudes from cut surfaces of a few house plants, such as Ficus elastica decora and Euphorbia.

lines lead from the zone valves to the sprinkler heads. lines are usually made of black polyethylene pipe, or poly-pipe.
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Lateral, fibrous roots can also grow off of a main taproot, such as the root hairs on a carrot.
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and secondary roots are those that grow off the primary or other fibrous roots and are usually very small.

Tomato laterals are the side branches that form in-between the main stem and a leaf that is growing on the main stem. These are easy to see when they're young. It's best to pinch them out at this stage rather than leaving them to grow.

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When built and located correctly, fish ponds can add interest and elegance to your back yard and supply a therapeutic source of fun and enjoyment to your garden and for your entire family. The right setting and...
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Pinch out lateral shoots above first node to form an umbrella-like canopy.
Shaping Fuchsias
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Notice the rhizome roots of the Iris.
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Encourage lateral growth
Straight up growth has its limits. New shoots that are allowed or forced to grow straight up produce a chemical inhibitor which prevents their buds from breaking into flowering shoots.

New growth on (side) branches may be cut slightly shorter than that on the leader. Evergreen trees will not recover well if cut back severely.

Systems include lateral pipes that are trenched and connected around the yard to channel drains, area drains and downspouts. This system should extend as close to the street as possible.
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Snowplow wings are extensions of a snowplow blade. The wings allow the blade to be widened to cut a bigger path through the snow.

(Gr. phyllon, leaf; eidos, form) a winged petiole with flattened surfaces placed laterally to the stem and functioning as a leaf.phyllotaxy search for term- n. (L. phyllo-, and Gr. taxis, arrangement) the arrangement of the leaves on the stem.

The rising shoots, intended to form young wood should be taken as near the origin of the branch as a good one offers, to allow of cutting away, beyond the adopted , a greater quantity of the branch, as it becomes old wood; ...

To do this, find the area along the base of the trunk where it begins to widen and lateral roots start to spread outward. This is called the “root flare'. The root flare is the bottom of the trunk and the top of the root system.

(tulip), and versatile if it is , near the center of the anther as in Crinum spp. (crinum).
Anther - lobed, oblong, bag-like appendage at the top of the filament which produces the pollen grains which develop the male germ cells.

Removing basal leaves or lateral shoots during berry set and the 2-week period following (before adult leafhoppers emerge), as recommended for Botrytis bunch rot management, will normally reduce peak leafhopper populations during the season by 30-50%.

Thinning (cutting selected branches back to a branch or main trunk) is usually preferred over heading back (Figure 1). Trees can be thinned to increase light penetration and encourage turfgrass growth beneath the tree.

Climbers should have their laterals cut back to three or four eyes and any new canes breaking from the base should be eliminated (unless you want to develop a new cane). Species roses (and most shrubs) should be tip pruned each fall.

The strongest cane on either side is pruned to 20 - 30 buds. These two s give you a total of 40 to 60 buds. The number of buds that you retain for fruiting is determined by the vigor of the vine.

A strongly growing tree can carry more fruit, therefore perhaps half of the laterals could be shortened and half left untouched. On a weaker tree, which tends to form fruit buds at the expense of new growth, 2 in 3 of the laterals may be pruned.

Peaches and nectarines bear fruit only from buds on 1-year-old branches. They need more dormant-season pruning than other fruit trees to stimulate growth of new fruiting wood each year and to keep the fruiting wood closer to the trunk.

Lateral roots will branch off from the taproots and then more lateral roots will form from the initial lateral roots, but the central tap root will remain the largest and burrow down into the soil the deepest. A good example is the common carrot.

For the first three years until fruiting begins, the aim of pruning is to develop the shape by tying in the main stem, or leader, and shortening new sideshoots, or s, to three leaves beyond their basal cluster of leaves.

Leave three or four laterals in the first year and prune back to two thirds or a half. In the second year, prune back the sub laterals to two thirds or a half and remove other weak or narrow angled laterals.

The other option is to shorten branches only (those growing ly from main branches), leaving the main branches in tact.

Maintain the canes and cut through the lateral stems, this will help thicken up the foliage around the canes without shortening the plant.

Each branch will have in turn produced branches, called s. On each scaffold branch, save two or three s that are at least 6 inches apart. Prune any s that are longer than the scaffold branch.

propagated from non-flowering lateral shoots, although
even shoots that are flowering can be rooted if the buds
or blossoms are removed. It is important that cuttings
are not hard and woody nor soft and flaccid. A semi-ripe ...

When you cut a twig or branch back to the trunk or to a branch, it's important cut at just the right place. Look for a raised bump or rings around the base of the twig or branch and take care to cut just outside it, leaving the ring intact.

With some perennials, especially those used for cut flowers such as peonies and chrysanthemums, you can encourage fewer but larger blooms by removing the smaller lateral flower buds, ...

For climbers, which are typically trained onto arbors or other structures, prune back s (stems that grow from existing canes, rather than emerging directly from the base of the plant) to between three and five buds.

See also: See also: Plant, Growing, Flower, Soil, Branch

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